Jewish Amsterdam

In the late 19th century, two Jewish teens fleeing Russian pogroms fell in love, married and immigrated to Montreal. On Canada’s east coast, Max ran a candy store while Alta kept the home fires burning. Together they raised six kids including my late mother Maleen, the fourth child of the middle-class brood that would eventually immigrate to America, one after another.

My Canadian mother met my American father on a blind date in Southern California, shortly after World War II ended. In an old photo, I see them romping in the waves in the cold Pacific—in modest swimwear, of course. A later family portrait captures the domestic bliss of my childhood. A hard-working product of the Depression who supported his mom and three siblings from age 10, my dad was a dashing veteran back then. He’d served abroad in the US Army, but had slugged an officer who called him a “dirty Jew,” thereby stalling his military career.

DadMeMom
In the post-war domestic bliss of the 1950s, my parents instilled pride in our Jewish heritage in me and my younger brother.

My parents settled in a Jewish suburb of Los Angeles, where they raised me and my brother in the post-war euphoria of the 1950s. While not particularly religious, they spoke Yiddish to each other when they wanted to keep secrets from us. Although Dad balked at the cost of joining a temple, he passed on an ample dose of pride in our Jewish heritage to me and my younger sibling.

PortugueseSynagogue
Miraculously spared by World War II, Amsterdam’s Portuguese Synagogue still hosts candlelight services. Photo credit: http:// http://www.amsterdamsights.com

Growing up, I never experienced persecution like my ancestors. Yet their stories fuel my pride in living in a city that’s been a sanctuary for Jews since the 16th century. The first influx came from Spain and Portugal, when those fleeing inquisitions found refuge in Amsterdam. The city’s Portuguese Synagogue, modeled after the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem, was the largest of its time and one of Amsterdam’s biggest buildings when built in 1675. It remains as evidence of the city’s religious tolerance in an era when Catholics were forbidden to worship. Miraculously undamaged by the war, it’s still a place where you can hear the Torah read at candlelit services.

A Flood of Jewish Refugees

My maternal grandparents Max and Alta were among the flood of Jews pushed out of Germany, Poland and Russia by antisemitic regimes. In Amsterdam, these Ashkenazi Jews soon outnumbered Sephardic Jews from the Iberian Peninsula. Regardless of origin, most of these immigrants settled in the thriving Jewish Quarter around Waterlooplein, where Rembrandt lived at the height of his fame. While not Jewish himself, many of the iconic artist’s paintings reflect Jewish life, from Old Testament scenes to portraits of locals. Today his house on Jodenbreestraat is a museum replete with furniture, 17th-century objects and etchings.

rembrandthuis
Rembrandt’s House is now a museum filled with his work. Photo credit: http://www.telegraph.co.uk

Rembrandt’s neighbors included Jewish bankers and merchants whose talents helped transform Amsterdam into Europe’s most important port during Holland’s Golden Age. Called “Mokum” by its early inhabitants—the Yiddish word for “place” or “safe haven”—it was a city where Jews thrived through the 19th century. The sentimental nickname persists, harking back to pre-World War II times, when Jews built synagogues and established successful businesses. Their impact remains in landmarks like Amsterdam’s posh Hotel Amstel, upscale department store De Bijenkorf, Gassan Diamonds and the Art Deco Tuschinski Theater built by Abraham Tuschinski, a Jewish immigrant from Poland.

IMG_1781
Abraham Tuschinski, a Jewish immigrant from Poland, was the visionary behind Amsterdam’s Art Deco Tuschinski Theater.

Nazi Occupation

When the Nazis invaded Holland in 1940, 60,000+ Jews lived in Amsterdam—about 10% of the population. During World War II, the Jewish Quarter became a ghetto after the Germans raised bridges and built fencing that cut access to the rest of the city. The Nazis put limits on daily life, rationed food and arrested Jews in the streets. Most were taken to the Hollandsche Schouwburg, Amsterdam’s municipal theater building, which became an assembly point for mass deportation to extermination camps in occupied Poland. Less than a year before the war ended, the city’s most famous diarist went into hiding with her family at Prinsengracht 263, now a museum where tourists pay homage to Anne Frank.

IMG_3660
The Anne Frank House is now a museum where tourists line up to pay homage to Amsterdam’s most famous diarist.

The Frank family was among some 25,000 Dutch and German Jews who hid to evade deportation, most unsuccessfully. Despite efforts of the Dutch Resistance Movement, including a dockworkers strike in February 1941 to protest persecution of the Jews, the majority died in Nazi concentration camps. A handful are remembered in Stumble Stones behind the Portuguese Synagogue, a worldwide Holocaust memorial project initiated by Gunter Demnig, a non-Jew from Germany, in 1994. Each brass plaque indicates a Holocaust victim’s name, birth and arrest dates, camp deported to and fate.

StumbleStones-1
Stumble Stones is a worldwide Holocaust memorial project. Several are installed behind Amsterdam’s Portuguese Synagogue. The ones above are in Berlin.

After the war ended, some 5,000 Jews returned to Amsterdam. Today a small community centered around the southern suburbs has grown to around 15,000, a small fraction of the pre-war Jewish population. Waterlooplein, once the central market for the 19th-century Jewish community, is now better known as a source for old military gear, bike parts and trinkets.

Remembering the Past

While the thriving Jewish Quarter around Waterlooplein is now consigned to history, a new Jewish Cultural Quarter preserves past and present Jewish life, culture and religion. Along with the Portuguese Synagogue, Anne Frank House, Amsterdam Resistance Museum and Holocaust Memorial at the Hollandsche Schouwburg, the Jewish Historical Museum is its most important monument. Comprised of four restored 17th– and 18th-century Ashkenazi synagogues (plus a kosher café accessible without a museum ticket), the museum traces the history of the Jews in Holland. A special wing houses exhibits for children.

JewishHistMuseum-1
The Jewish History Museum traces the history of the Jews in Amsterdam.

Tickets to all Jewish Cultural Quarter exhibits can be purchased at any of the participating institutions and run €15 for adults and €7.50 for teens and students, €3.75 for children age 612. Tickets are valid for one month and can be used for multiple access to all monuments.

4 comments

  1. ran across your site on a site about moving to Netherlands. My wife and I are wanting to get out of the US. we are leaning towards New Zealand….or Netherlands (our office HQ is located in the Hague). Is it hard living there if you do not speak Dutch??? how are Americans’ perceived there???? Its a big worry since we have 2 kids. Wonder if we should wait until they are done with school here….but things are getting scary here!

    Like

    • Almost everyone speaks English in Amsterdam and other cities in the Netherlands, so communication is rarely a problem, Jeff…unless you live out in the countryside. In fact, Dutchies’ fluency in English makes it difficult to master Dutch, as they switch to English the minute they hear a foreign accent. Knowing the language is a big plus, however, as it helps to integrate into the culture, read local newspapers, shop and understand what the Geemente (the equivalent of our IRS) wants as their letters don’t come in English.

      As far as how Americans are perceived here, we’re one of about 189 nationalities in the city–almost as many as exist in the world–so we’re just part of the diversity here. Nevertheless, I plan to start inserting “eh” into my sentences if Trump gets elected (my mom was Canadian, so not a total ruse), but refuse to believe that could really happen. Whatever their ages, your kids will likely thrive in the Netherlands, whether they attend Dutch or international schools. There are reasons Dutch kids are some of the happiest in the world. Associating with them and other nationalities, your children will learn about other cultures and you’ll be setting the foundation for them becoming global citizens.

      Your medical insurance actually covers something in Holland, without a ridiculous deductible and endless co-pays. There’s none of that here. But you will pay taxes…both Dutch + American. Whatever they are, it’s worth it. You’re one of several people who’ve contacted me, wanting advice about leaving the US, so you’re not alone. I’ll tell you what I’ve told all of them: just do it! If your experience is anything like mine, you’ll have no regrets. If you have more questions, feel free to email me at melissa@wordgeisha.com. I’m happy to help!

      Like

    • Sorry for my delayed response; just noticed your comment. Almost everyone under 50 speaks English in the Netherlands, which makes it difficult to learn and practice Dutch. Things have gotten much worse since you wrote. My advice: just move! Your kids will thank you. Amsterdam is a fabulous city with great culture and history, in addition to top healthcare + terrific public transport. Yes, we have the voice of insanity in Geert Wilders, but it’s not that loud.

      Like

  2. This is a beautiful post, Melissa. I did not know about the stumble stones until this year, when I first saw them in Heidelberg. I was at the point of asking you if you knew of any in Amsterdam when I saw this post! Now I will know to look for them when I visit next time. Thanks for this!

    Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s